Sunday, February 28
We have been home since Thursday (Feb25) night. After about 20 hours in the air with 2 4-hour layovers (one in Paris, one in Atlanta) we were picked up by Angel Lucky who delivered us home to Happy Birthday balloons (Joseph's) and key lime pie. To keep up with tradition we did manage to unpack two suitcases before dropping with exhaustion. Well, now it is late Sunday and we are still so jet-lagged we keep falling off to sleep all the time. I have never had this so bad. My head is spinning, eyes don't focus, minor nausea, etc. We are hoping to be over this by tomorrow.
Looking back on our India experience I feel overwhelmed with images which bombarded the senses and which tore at my heart. It was great! I am filled with a longing to return and learn more. We were quite ready to return home but really needed more time... like months maybe to really get around this huge subcontinent. The people we met were very interesting and with many we could not communicate since they spoke little or no English... like our driver, JaiPal, a 25-year old with nerves of steel, the road aggression of a Le Mans champ and the looks of a movie star. Hey, I may be exaggerating, but I wouldn't drive in India for a million bucks. All I can say is, thank you Jai Pal for driving us safely throughout our trip.
Our guide comes from a family of farmers. OP and his three brothers have built homes around each other in a compound occupying one corner of the family land. He and two of his brothers married three sisters ... all arranged marriages and OP is now in charge of arranging marriages for some of his nieces. When we spoke skeptically of arranged marriages hi repeatedly stated the the parents are happy, the groom is happy, the bride is happy, the families are happy... everyone is happy and we have no reason not to believe him. He and PhooLo are celebrating thirty years of marriage in April... or sometime around then, he is vague about dates.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Friday, February 26, 2010
yes, we did see the Tiger
Just a short update on Tiger hunting - a very big thing in India. We went on three safaris down south at Ranthambore and got skunked, A safari is three and a half hours of running around in a six-passanger jeep with our birding guide, a Tiger guide and a driver. It is all very fast paced so I don't know how they expect to sneak up on a Tiger. They say the tigers are so used to the jeeps that they don't run when they hear them. Up in he Corbett National Park in the North, they are very different - they hide in the tall grasses or in the deep wooded area. It is much harder to see them up there. You have to look for other animal signs that a Tiger in in the area. So we saw that the Samba deer had their tails in a danger alert position so we waited outside the tall grass for about 30 minutes, and yes, there she was - sneaking across the road. Ah, we got our Tiger. She was very dark in color, but how exciting. Fifth safari - but w ehad good birding along the way.
Friday, February 19, 2010
Nainital : Mountain Birdwatching
Nainital, a mountain town, where Brits and rich Indians had their summer homes, boasts a paved road that is as good as any we have been on in the US and other countries, At the top of one drive we had a magnificent view of the distant Himalayas. We are staying at the Vikram Vintage Inn where it seems we are the only guests at the moment. We are waited on lavishly and the food is very good. I am somewhat afflicted with Montezuma's disease so have been refraining from eating too much. Yesterday we had a great birding day. We drove to Sattal Valley and walked in fields, and forest trails searching for birds. We ticked over 60 species, 44 new ones. It was the first day that we didn't see peafowl, although on the drive from UnchaGaon we saw tons, mostly roosting in trees. It is hard to pick a favorite. Rose breasted parakeet is at the top, along with Rusty cheeked Scimitar babbler and a host of others.
It is fascinating how populated the countryside is. Even these mountains are well populated. We passed small towns and villages and isolated homes. This town has very handsome homes, painted white, pink, all shades of blue with wrought iron railings surrounding verandas and small balconies. And everywhere are small temples. Zosia - (note the internet went down six days ago as this was being written - we're now home and will soon catch up - what a fantastic trip)
It is fascinating how populated the countryside is. Even these mountains are well populated. We passed small towns and villages and isolated homes. This town has very handsome homes, painted white, pink, all shades of blue with wrought iron railings surrounding verandas and small balconies. And everywhere are small temples. Zosia - (note the internet went down six days ago as this was being written - we're now home and will soon catch up - what a fantastic trip)
Wednesday - We are on the road to Northern India but first we will go to the birthplace of Krishna (and of course, OP's daughter and grandson) We visit their home down back alleys where probably 10 people live. The grandfather, or Boss, is 90 something and he latches on to Joseph and talks his ear off thinking he understands everything he is saying.( of course, he doesn't understand a word.) OP says that he is basically complaining about the ways of the modern world and how much things costs for such poor quality. Also he pines for his wife that died years ago and he wants to join her. He insists that Joseph have one of his beedies which he does. He hasn't smoked a cig in 8 years and 40 years since his last beedie. He calls for tea and then lunch. Zosia is totally left out of all this and would like to get on with the day. We stop by the most beautiful temple in the world (hari Krishna) only to find out it is closed.
We drive the rest of the day though some of the worst traffic yet and arrive at our our hotel, Fort Unchagon - a maharajah's fort converted to a hotel. The tiger trophey room had 15 stuffed tigers from 1959-61. It also had a billiards room with a table twice as long as any billiard table I have ever seen. Our room was about 24x24 feet and a 16 foot ceiling. It was also pretty cold so the came and lit our stove. Dinner and breakfast was the same as everyday -soup, mixed vegs, curried chicken, nam, other vegetables, Fried eggs, porrage, juices, toast,
Leave early Thursday but it is a long drive today 8 hours. Clean retrooms are really hard to come by, when we see one we celebrate. The men just pee "any place at all" city or country. The women need to find a tree to be proper. There sure is a lot of driving to get a short distance. Zosia and I have books on mp3 players from the library so we see all the sights with reduced noise and a good story. But we are running short on AAA batteries but that in itself will become a chore to acquire tomorrow. We had an opportunity to see TV in the last hotel and the difference between that and the reality we are experiencing have nothing in common.
Now we head to the mountains - we are in the foothills of the Himalayas and all is changed - very steep and curvy roads, very little traffic, still our driver honks at every curve, it is more than cool, it turns cold. We come to to our destination - Nainital - the mountain city 7000 feet. From here we can see the snow covered peaks of the Himalayas. The hotel is beautiful but very few guests and no internet. The birding up here is very good, just driving in yesterday, we will have five days in the montains before we return to New Dehli.
We drive the rest of the day though some of the worst traffic yet and arrive at our our hotel, Fort Unchagon - a maharajah's fort converted to a hotel. The tiger trophey room had 15 stuffed tigers from 1959-61. It also had a billiards room with a table twice as long as any billiard table I have ever seen. Our room was about 24x24 feet and a 16 foot ceiling. It was also pretty cold so the came and lit our stove. Dinner and breakfast was the same as everyday -soup, mixed vegs, curried chicken, nam, other vegetables, Fried eggs, porrage, juices, toast,
Leave early Thursday but it is a long drive today 8 hours. Clean retrooms are really hard to come by, when we see one we celebrate. The men just pee "any place at all" city or country. The women need to find a tree to be proper. There sure is a lot of driving to get a short distance. Zosia and I have books on mp3 players from the library so we see all the sights with reduced noise and a good story. But we are running short on AAA batteries but that in itself will become a chore to acquire tomorrow. We had an opportunity to see TV in the last hotel and the difference between that and the reality we are experiencing have nothing in common.
Now we head to the mountains - we are in the foothills of the Himalayas and all is changed - very steep and curvy roads, very little traffic, still our driver honks at every curve, it is more than cool, it turns cold. We come to to our destination - Nainital - the mountain city 7000 feet. From here we can see the snow covered peaks of the Himalayas. The hotel is beautiful but very few guests and no internet. The birding up here is very good, just driving in yesterday, we will have five days in the montains before we return to New Dehli.
Heading North - long drives
Feb. 17 - Zosia: We are in our room at Fort Unchagaon, an incredible place out of India' far and more recent past when Maharajas ruled the people and the Crown ruled the Maharajas. When shooting tigers was the rich man's utimate sport. When we were at Rhatambhore on a tiger watch run the guide pointed out a brick turret shaped building where the Queen rested between tiger shoots, and she did bag one there in 1959.
Today we experienced a harrowing drive from Mathura, the birthplace of Lord Krishna, to this hotel. Not all of it, of course, but several times we were in these unbelievable traffic jams with all this honking and cars... cows, 3-wheelers, bicycles, pedestrians... and these enormous trucks ... coming at you from all directions. Trucks rule here but everyone treats everyone with respect ... they have too because chaotic does not begin to describe the road reality here. At one point over 25 water buffalo crossed our path in the middle of a very busy city street. Yesterday in Agra, our very well informed guide, V.K., called the street scene in India as "urban safari." Throw in the free running dogs and the rhesus monkeys and one gets the picture.
Today, to keep from screaming and to ward off thoughts of what was a highly likely nightmare scenario of an accident leaving us stranded in whatever side road town we were passing... and there was always one after another, sort of like the east coast of Florida starting at Vero Beach heading south... only these in India are much more colorful and scary... to keep my sanity I read my book... and finished it! and a very appropriate book it is. Written by A.Roy.
Today we experienced a harrowing drive from Mathura, the birthplace of Lord Krishna, to this hotel. Not all of it, of course, but several times we were in these unbelievable traffic jams with all this honking and cars... cows, 3-wheelers, bicycles, pedestrians... and these enormous trucks ... coming at you from all directions. Trucks rule here but everyone treats everyone with respect ... they have too because chaotic does not begin to describe the road reality here. At one point over 25 water buffalo crossed our path in the middle of a very busy city street. Yesterday in Agra, our very well informed guide, V.K., called the street scene in India as "urban safari." Throw in the free running dogs and the rhesus monkeys and one gets the picture.
Today, to keep from screaming and to ward off thoughts of what was a highly likely nightmare scenario of an accident leaving us stranded in whatever side road town we were passing... and there was always one after another, sort of like the east coast of Florida starting at Vero Beach heading south... only these in India are much more colorful and scary... to keep my sanity I read my book... and finished it! and a very appropriate book it is. Written by A.Roy.
Thoughts on Dogs
Dogs - I have taken a fascination with the dogs here. There are many on the streets and it doesn't appear to belong to anyone. The lie flat out like a dead dog, not curled like the dogs back home. They lie all over the streets, on trash heaps, everywhere. They don't move as the activity is all around them. They seem to maneuver around the traffic with no problems, even the little puppies know how to casually get out of the way of the cars, bikes, carts, feet. People don't push them out of the way but treat them with as much respect as any other creature. This seems to also apply to humans. Everyone seems to respect everyone else and does not act like they are in the way (except our car going through town where everyone/thing gets honked at). By the way this applies to the water buffalo, cows, pigs, doneys, horses, and monkeys that are wondering about the streets all day.
Taj Mahal
The next day Taj Mahal and the red fort in Agra. But upon the return, we are going to a wedding next door at OP's brothers. Joseph dressesi n this new shirt, Zosia in her new Sari. We get there for the marriage and dinner. Joseph meets the men, Zosia with the wife and neices. As OP says we are all the same so there is no issue about sharing spoons for tasting or serving all dishes except soup with the hands. That would take som getting used to for some Americans. At the reception the server scoops the food with their hands. The food was good and festive. Everyone is so casual everywhere. it seems like no one has expectation on anyone.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
