Wednesday - Jaipur

Wednesday - Zosia - went with a guest guide, local historian Bhavanni Singh to visit the Amber Fort (Amer). Five of us packed in the TATA with Jai Pel driving and Bhavanni telling the story in front passenger seat. Most enjoyable. Fortified by an amazing stone wall with scalloped top edge Amer sits atop a series of small mountains. A film crew was setting up at the foothills for the next epic. See "Johdaa Akbar" available on Netflix, to see it come alive. As I looked through the seraglio's screened walls patchouli wafted in the breeze giving the walls the illusion of being imbued with the scent.
Lots of tourists but we were early and mesmerized by Bhavanni's narratives, we wandered the steps, the chambers...climbed up to the walls and viewed the scene below... elephants carrying tourists on short walks, like a Disney World ride, moving continuously.

Joseph - drove through the center of Jaipur in what could be only described a pure chaos from my eyes. bikes, cars, hand drawn carts, pedestrians, bicycle and motorcycle richshaws all mesh in the streets. Camel carts, cows and dogs wondering around, beggars staring at you. We stop in front of the Palace of winds for a extensive description, beggars line the streets - one young crippled man comes up and sells us postcards - 40 for $2. Apparently this is one that our new guide has saved from begging. The guides try save them from begging by sponsoring them to sell rather than beg. It is almost too much for the eyes ears and nose - the people hanging around just staring at you.
OK, I resisted taking the elephant ride up the hill to the Amir Fort, but who could resist playing the recorder with a cobra snake charmer. Zosia and I pet the snake and I wore the turban. As I walked away I had this horrible taste permeating through my mouth - did I have snake venom from the recorder, or, as I thought later, they sterilized it with a rag soaked in iodine.
Drove the rest of the day to Ranthanbore - not far, but with the flat tire it took us 6 hours. Our driver is great as he never stops but honks and weaves and keeps moving at all times. now we are traveling on two lane side roads under repair much of the time. Camel carts are now dominating the roads down here. And when you thought driving in the day was a trip - try it at night.
Here's an aside - In Japan it is so impolite to directly look at someone, rarely do you see anyone looking at you. Ah, but in India all day long young and old will come up to you and stare at you for a long duration standing about two feet away. It is a bit spooky, being from the US. And, it is often awkward to say hi to them as it can start an uneasy interchange if they know a little English. But everywhere we stop we draw a crowd and they all stare at you. I guess it makes you feel like a movie star.
It is 2am. Guess I am jet lagged. Joseph is trying to sleep. What a trip! We are at the Tiger Den Resort in Rathambore. We are in a different world, The food has been delicious and yes, the usual Indian fare. Each meal is a carousel of curried veggies, chicken tikkala or something like it, lots of DAAL, Paan, sauces aand sauces. No point in writing down menus all similar and delicious.